Getting rid of moles in your yard or garden can be a frustrating and fruitless chore even if you know what you do. The multitude of misinformation and home-spun recommendations out there don’t help matters either. Individuals have used smoke bombs, red pepper, poison peanuts, razor blades, chewing gum, human hair, vibrating apparatus and long list of harmful chemicals to find the moles out of their lawns. There’s hardly any evidence to support these methods. After years of trialing this method or that method I am of the conviction that there’s only 1 mole control strategy is effective. Effective mole control consists of:
1. Effective mole traps
2. An excellent knowledge of a moles behaviour and customs.
These are the essential ingredients to appropriate mole elimination. Number two is the most important. Without this understanding the traps won’t help you very much. An individual may be asking why grub prevention isn’t listed. While moles do consume the white grub it is not their main food source. Moles prefer earthworms. You can spend a good deal of money treating your lawn for grubs but it is my view that it will not be an effective course of action.
There are a variety of mole traps in the marketplace. The two most common styles are also the most effective. They work on exactly the exact same assumption as far as having a trap pan put on the upper side of the mole tunnel and striking when being pushed up.
This plunger or harpoon style mole trap appears to be the most popular and accessible of the different varieties and is designed for being put on-top of the ground directly over the mole runway so that its supporting bets straddle the tube and its spikes plunge down and harpoon the mole as it pushes upward on the trigger pan.
The scissor traps have large scissor-like blades that are inserted across the mole tunnel after shoving down a little area for the cause. When the mole excavates the collapsed part of the tube, the claws slam shut and kill the mole. These traps work well on the deeper main mole tunnels which are generally 8 to 12 inches beneath the surface.
Proper placement of mole traps is the trick to success or failure. This is where a good understanding of mole behavior and habits is critical.
In fact there usually are only 2 – 3 moles per acre. This territorial nature is a key element in mole control. After a mole is removed by trapping your lawn may soon be claimed by a neighboring mole searching for new grounds causing one to believe that your mole control plan is not working.
Moles make two types of tunnels. These are shallow tunnels at or near the grounds surface and deep tunnels which are 6 – 20 inches underground.
The interconnecting trails visible above ground and just under the surface are feeding tunnels and may often be used only once. Too locate deeper tunnels use a stick and probe between or next to fresh mounds. When the ground gives way, the stick has probably broken through the burrow.
Locating surface runways that are active will take you a little more time. Start looking for great straight tunnels. Tunnels which are more inclined to be active seem to be those connecting feeding areas or people running adjacent to driveways, walks or garden edges. You’ll have to collapse a small area of several tunnels and mark the spots. During the next couple days you will have to check to see which tunnels are re-expanded. These are the active tunnels and this is where you want to put your traps.
Please consider the safety of children, pets and yourself.
Mole traps are sharp, spring-loaded fast and very strong. These traps don’t know the difference between a mole and a hand. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings. And most importantly keep them out of the hands of a child and educate your children so that they know better than to play with a set mole trap.